So I made another spoon…

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My second attempt. This one will be added to the kitchen drawer.

Just as we did not change our name to The Truth About Sporks last April, I have no plans on turning the blog into The Truth About Spoons. That said, it is what is front and center right now with regards to my knife use and it is truthfully a bit addictive.

My first attempt was a bit short in the handle for practical use, so I started again with a bigger piece of lauan. I wanted to make my wife a serving/stirring spoon for the kitchen as a thank you for the Mora 163 that she bought me for Christmas. The fact that carving spoons is fun had nothing at all to do with it.

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side view with the Mora 163

Unlike my first one, I sanded and added a couple of coats of salad-bowl oil to it. Bill recommends boiled linseed oil Danish Oil, but I didn’t have any handy and I have always had good luck with the SBO on my cutting boards and other food-contact items. It added a nice luster it is my assumption that this should work fine. If not, I will let you know.

When I asked if any of you were carvers in a QoD last March, Bill was the only one who stepped forward as having any significant experience. I certainly didn’t have any. But the thing I like most about TTAK is I am never quite sure what rabbit holes I will be diving down and where they will lead. I guess I have found another hobby.

Enough about spoons. Back to searching for content for tomorrow. As always, if you come across anything you think might interest our readers, please email thetruthaboutknives@gmail.com.

Have a great day folks.

Editors Note: I don’t know why I typed linseed oil. Probably because I was tired. Bill corrected me in the comments. I have used Danish oil, but for food-contact products, I have always used walnut oil or General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. The former is always food safe (in fact you can buy it at the grocery store in a pinch though it is more expensive), and the latter is food safe once it has cured. 

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Sorry for the confusion.

comments

  1. Anchampion03 says:

    Wow huge improvement
    Isn’t wood working super therapudic?
    Great progress, keep it up

  2. Jsmith says:

    Boiled linseed oil has solvents and isn’t food safe. Also, the rags used to apply it can spontaneously combust if they aren’t disposed/handled properly.

    I highly recommend Danish Oil by Tried and True. It’s different than regular Danish oils you’ll find at the hardware store. It’s a food safe polymerized linseed oil. I got a quart on Amazon for $20. It’s pricier, but the quart will last substantially longer than other oils.

  3. Bill J. says:

    Jsmith is 100% correct. I use food safe Tried and True Danish Oil (not boiled linseed oil). You can also use the Original which is a combo of oil and beeswax.

    1. My mistake. I misread what you said in our earlier conversation.

      Fixed it above.

  4. cmeat says:

    that spoon requires finishing similar to a cutting board, which is easy to research. keep in mind that tung is a nut and may cause allergic reactions. any plant derived oil can eventually rancidify (word?) so from what i’ve read “white mineral oil” (highly refined) may be ideal, as would beeswax.
    when i worked the “wintuff” finish off of my ’94ae trapper i hit it with straight linseed oil. pretty nice glow, for awhile. then it goes flat.

    1. I have used linseed on gun stocks. But that is about it. And the tags always went straight into the wood stove where they wouldn’t cause a problem if they combusted.

      Walnut oil is non toxic but I agree doesn’t last as long. The SBO seems to hit the sweet spot for me.

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So I made another spoon…

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